Feliz Navidad

Reading “Watling Street” after my book expert cousin referred to it on Facebook, I am in reflective mood. Friday 13th 2019 was a disaster for some and a cause for celebration by many others. Boris Johnson’s government has achieved the necessary majority for a mandate to finally “get Brexit done”. Sitting here in Spain, idly looking for a glimpse of what life is supposed to be about, John Higgs’ words capture my thinking : “Perhaps our current division is a necessary stage in the emergence of a new national story. Other countries think we are crazy, of course, but haven’t they always? It would be a small price to pay to find ourselves part of a new, living myth”

The Witches’ Cave

The Witche’s cave, El Berro

The theme of Watling Street is that if there’s such a thing as a British national psyche, it has evolved out of stories, myths and legends that go way back in time. It is still evolving, of course; fed by the stories, myths and legends of our present times too. And in so far as it could be a shared psyche, the tendency of mohomers to gravitate towards fellow countrymen (and women) when abroad has been borne out by our time in El Berro. The election result was inevitably a talking point, and given that those of us Brits here enjoying Spain are clearly Europhiles (or at least Spain-o-philes) we all groaned through last Friday morning and felt embarrassed in the company of our Spanish and other European companions. Keeping our heads low, we all shuffled about our business hoping no-one would again ask us “Why?”

The good news is that sterling is up and suddenly we have more Euro’s to our pounds. Let’s see how long the bounty will last.

We have definitely fallen in love with El Berro and the mountain park it nestles in, Sierra Espûna. It has many stories of its own, of course. We’ve learned how people had to move away in the Franco era, many to France, and how the children and grandchildren have started drifting back, reclaiming family property and finding ways to make a living. The old men and women we see around the village will all have tales to tell, and I would love to hear them.....if I had enough grasp of their language to understand. We were given a link to a YouTube film of El Berro in Spanish, but which was, nevertheless interesting to see. ( You Tube: Contrastes - Guadrilla del Berro)

One the greatest stories (THE greatest?) has to be the Nativity story and, as we discovered last winter, the traditional way to celebrate Navidad in Spain and Portugal is with nativity scenes. Gareth and I were awed by the one we saw in Mertola last year (see Jan ‘19 blog) and here in El Berro I was privileged to share an invitation to view one in the local church (Iglesia Nuestra Señora De los Dolores De El Berro) . The tableau ran the whole length of the church, each part of the story told in intricate miniature detail. The work involved is mind boggling, especially given the fact that after a couple of months it will be dismantled. I am including in this blog some photos of the tableau taken by, and kindly sent to me by Sue, our British camping compatriot.

Iglesia Nuestra Señora De los Dolores De El Berro , miniaturised and placed in the Nativity

The Nativity is a wonderful story to remember each year, whether you believe it or not. It is one of those stories that reminds us to be more than just human. It reminds us to reach into that better part of ourselves in wishing for peace and goodwill to all mankind. And it goes far beyond Britishness, linking us across many cultures.. I am very grateful to the people of El Berro for letting me see their beautifully modelled re-enactment. And on that note, I wish everyone a very happy Christmas.

El Berro, miniaturised